Difference between revisions of "Blender/Texturing From A UV Map"

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imported>Sickleyield
(Updated. Can we remove the edit tag now, please?)
imported>Sickleyield
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This part is important.  It doesn’t matter as much what layer you have on top in the GIMP right now, as long as they’re both visibleIt DOES matter that in the layers dialogue you select your new layer, NOT the one with the UV map in it:
This part is important.  Select the empty layer you made to use for texturingMake sure it is THIS you have selected, NOT the shadow render or UV map.


THE WRONG WAY:
THE WRONG WAY:
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If you click on the mesh itself in the viewing window over in NifSkope, you may see something interesting: a green pattern like a net covers the mesh.  This green grid is your best friend, because it is exactly the same as the one you’re looking at in the texture, just wrapped around your mesh instead of laid flat.
If you save and then click on the mesh itself in the viewing window over in NifSkope, you may see something interesting: a green pattern like a net covers the mesh.  This green grid is your best friend, because it is exactly the same as the one you’re looking at in the texture, just wrapped around your mesh instead of laid flat.


[[Image:UVTutorial6.jpg]]
[[Image:UVTutorial6.jpg]]


Now, if you like, you can draw a rough outline in your new layer, tracing the boundaries of your UV map so you know where the texture should go and where it’s a waste of your time to draw.  I don’t generally bother, but if you do you can use GIMP’s versatile paintbrush (p key) or pencil (n key) to do that.   
Now, if you like, you can draw a rough outline in your new layer, tracing the boundaries of your UV map so you know where the texture should go and where it’s a waste of your time to draw.  Alternately, you can go to the shadow layer you made and just delete the black spaceSelect it by pressing u key and clicking the black, then choosing edit--cut.


Remember, you may have to do a lot of layer shuffling and moving up and down as you texture.  For this reason, it's good to save as an .xcf or .psd format.  This won't show up in NifSkope, but it will save your layers.  If you save a .dds with layers, close it, and reopen it, you will lose all but the top layer.  You can check your progress in NifSkope by sometimes exporting a .dds.   
Remember, you may have to do a lot of layer shuffling and moving up and down as you texture.  You want to do that on the .xcf or .psd version.  This won't show up in NifSkope, but it will save your layers.  If you save a .dds with layers, close it, and reopen it, you will lose all but the top layer.  You can check your progress in NifSkope by sometimes exporting a .dds.   


To export a .dds from an .xcf or .psd, first make sure you saved all changes to the layered file.  Then go to image--flatten image.  Then file--save as.  Save as a .dds.  The image should now be able to be displayed in NifSkope.
To export a .dds from an .xcf or .psd, first make sure you saved all changes to the layered file.  Then go to image--flatten image.  Then file--save as.  Save as a .dds.  The image should now be able to be displayed in NifSkope.


=Composing the Texture=
=Composing the Texture=
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